How to work with hardfoam models


  • This workshop will show how to "pimp up" a hardfoam model.
    I will show how easy you can work with this material and what you can do to decorate and embellish the model.

    Of course this will also work with other models, not only with the one I choose from Ziterdes for this workshop.



  • The delivery form of our model looks like this:



  • Step 1


    In this example I like to convert the model for a Fantasy-scenario, so I have to get rid of the car wreck of course.

    That's very easy to achieve with a cutter knife.


  • Step 2


    I could smooth the surface with sandpaper and cover it with flock material later.

    But in this case I want to create a small pond and so I cut deeper into the base.

    You should be carful not to cut too deep, a hole would not be useful...

    You can use the hardfoam waste to build debris around the pond by the way.



  • Step 3


    Now I like to embellish the base by bouldering the pavement.

    Although the hardfoam is very stable you can use a ball-pen to create the joints.

    With a little pressure you can press the joints into the pavement.

    I also want some embellishment on the inner side of the walls.

    Though working on a ruined building you should use a ruler.



  • Step 4


    Now I start with painting. The models from Ziterdes are "pre-painted", but sometimes I don't need the color they used.

    I usually don't take the expensive acryl colours for the base coat. In this case I use some dark grey, middle grey, dark brown, red-brown and dark green.



  • With the very simple technique of "dry brushing" you can achieve quite good results.

    You paint from dark to light and the lighter the colour, the dryer the brush should be.

    Hold the brush flat and move it carefully over the surface of the model. Now you only paint the upper regions of the surface and after doing this with two lighter colours the model looks like this:



  • Step 5


    It's time to cover the base with different materials but we start with glueing a tree upon the model.



  • Due to the fact that the roots don't look very good I start with the tree and have to cut those roots first because there isn't enough space for them on the model. I glue the tree with hotglue.



  • Step 6


    I like to have some waterplants in my pond. To create them I use a material called "foliage".

    You can easyly rip off the quantity you need and glue the strips onto the places you like to have the plants.

    This material can also be used to create climbing or hanging tendrils.



  • Step 7


    To cover the soil I use "Grass glue" from Noch/Ziterdes. This glue drys slowly and the surface don't drys first so I'm able to cover bigger regions at once.



  • Useing a newspaper underneath my model allows me to scatter without wasting material.

    You can also mix those materials to create transitions between different ground coverings.



  • To let some gras grow out of the joints I use static chargeable material.

    With a small brush I "paint" the regions where the grass shall grow.

    Filling the static chargeable material into a special plastic bottle will do the trick. First you have to shake the bottle. Than move it vertically towards the base of the model and press the bottle. Doing this you "shoot" the material into the grass glue.



  • The whole model looks like this:



  • You can see the static grass here:



  • Step 8


    Now I choose some small plants for my model. There are bushes in different colours, tufts of gras or even flowers. You can also have the so-called "Lasercut Minis".



  • You can place the bushes with hotglue. It looks quite natural if you take care to glue the ugly side upon the base.



  • Lasercut-Minis come in sheets printed on both sides and can be released carefully with a knife.



  • Bring the mini into shape and glue it onto the place you like to have it.



  • From an other perspective:



  • Step 9


    The last step is to create water. I prefer a two-component-material from Ziterdes, called "2k water gel".



  • Mix the components 1:1 (stir them well) and cast the fluid into the pond.

    The fluid is very thin and you don't have to make a deep pit. You can simulate the depth of the water by painting the pit. Dark colour - deep water.

    What you have mixed will harden irrepealable, so don't use too much of the components.

    With a tooth-picker you can help the small air-bubbles that will arise when you cast out of the fluid.

    It's no problem if you took too less of the components for your casting. There is enough time to mix some more and cast it over the first mixture.



  • Here are some pictures of the pond:



  • The finished model looks like this:



  • We wish you a lot of fun with constructing and painting.


    Your team

    Thomarillion